Awareness of the importance of selecting the right table water to enhance the dining experience is increasing, thanks in part to bottled water companies educating consumers, as well as their restaurant and hotel clientele.
I talked to seven of the leading table manufacturers and an expert water and hospitality consultant to find out more. They are:
How is the market for table and dining waters currently faring?
Miranda Clegg & Andrew Bickerton: The market is holding up well. With health issues, drink driving and financial constraints, many people are choosing to drink water rather than other alcoholic beverages, and welcome a choice in the waters they drink.
However, there has been an increase in requests for tap water in certain restaurants. This is dependent on the policy of the restaurant or caterer, and the more discerning diners are continuing to choose pure, natural bottled waters over tap as there is a notable difference in the taste of treated, chlorinated tap water.
Arthur Asmaryan: Water is becoming increasingly more important in the Horeca sector.
Leonardo Soifer: We’re seeing a strong recovery after last year’s crisis. However, the concept of luxury has evolved. More aware consumers are searching for experiences rather than ‘show off’ products.
Spencer Langley: While the value-conscious casual diner continues to seek tap water, the demand for an alternative to tap water in upscale dining remains strong. Those looking to enjoy their finely tuned meal and beverages seek quality throughout their dining experience.
There’s a recent trend of filtering tap water and presenting it in a single-serve or glass bottle that attempts to distinguish it from filtered water served from a carafe or pitcher. While this is often viewed as the best environmental alternative, the bottles must be washed, the filtration machine runs on electricity, and the filters must be changed regularly.
There will always be a core group of discerning consumers who want consistent taste and texture, as well as a sealed bottle providing a more sanitary closed system than a filtered water alternative.
Tomi Grönfors: The water market has seen a fast polarisation process, where the market is roughly divided into commodity waters and premium waters. In the Horeca world, the understanding of the differences in waters has decreased and it has opened up a reasonable premium water sector.
Jose Martí: In recent years, the market has transformed from one which was traditionally only occupied by local waters, to one which has seen a multitude of brands from exotic places. The term ‘colourless and tasteless’ has been surpassed by flavour, low mineralisation, hard, soft, and other terms which years ago would have been associated more with wine-tasting rather than mineral water.
Leslie K Smith: In light of the distressed economy, there appears to be a level of stability – and even growth – with respect to fine dining and premiere hotels, and their desire for premium waters.
What kind of qualities should a good table water possess in terms of taste, mouth feel and packaging?
Clegg & Bickerton: From our experience, the most important attributes of a bottled natural mineral water are a subtle taste and good packaging to present at the table. We haven’t noticed an increase in sales since we produced our customised glass bottle. Our water is very smooth and the taste doesn’t overpower the food. Many mineral waters have a strong mineral or salty taste which are either liked or disliked, therefore a memorable but soft taste is preferred.
Asmaryan: Both are very important, but the initial impression created is the packaging design, followed by the quality of the water.
Soifer: A good table water should be a complement, and not the main point of attraction in combination with fine foods, wines and drinks. Taste relates mainly to the level of sodium per mg/l. A good table water should have a low level of sodium (5-50 mg/l) and a neutral pH (7.2). In terms of texture, it should be not very hard (Mg + Ca) and if sparkling, with a carbonation level no larger than 7.5 mg/l. Its packaging should reflect the values and marketing proposition of the restaurant or hotel where it’s served.
Langley: Good table water shouldn’t exceed 150ppm of total dissolved solids. Again, guests seeking to enjoy the full experience of a selected wine and the works of art that today’s culinary masters produce don’t want their palate crowded or skewed by a higher concentration of minerals in their water, which often produces an aftertaste. Water should cleanse, hydrate and prepare the body and senses for the full enjoyment of what the chef or vintner has created.
Packaging is frequently underestimated, but it’s an important part of the entire presentation of the product. Packaging not only protects the taste of the water but distinguishes the product. A thick, high-grade, 100% PET bottle or glass helps protect the quality of water. An artistic and well-constructed bottle and label improve the aesthetic enjoyment of the table presentation.
Grönfors: In the case of Veen, our key factor for success is low minerality. In this way, the water is soft and can be served at room temperature. Soft water has a light taste and can therefore be left without chilling. The clean taste cleanses the palate perfectly for wine and food. That is why we say that Veen is perfect with or without wine.
Martí: From our point of view, our water has extremely low mineralisation, the lowest sodium level in Europe (Na 0.6) and a highly balanced pH (7.9), which gives an exquisitely neutral taste and complements dishes and fine wines. These are qualities which have turned it into the preferred table water of restaurants such as El Bulli, voted the best restaurant in the world in recent years.
Our brand’s packaging was revamped a few years ago to emphasise its origins and classical elegance, as it is sourced from one of the oldest springs in the country under permanent operation (since 1934).
As in any FMCG sector, packaging plays a significant role, but for Veen it is only one part of the product.
Smith: ‘Tasteless’ is preferable. Given that every individual’s mouth feel is different, the pH balance of the water is important and should be neutral.
Premium packaging should include a design that’s simple, sexy and subtle, while using 100% recyclable glass bottles and recyclable caps. Plastic is out! Labelling should use an applied colour label technique with non-toxic ink, without paper labels or glue.
When selecting waters for their menus, what are restaurants and hotels looking for?
Clegg & Bickerton: They’re looking for a quality product that can be differentiated from tap water. The bottle presentation is therefore important, along with a healthy mineral content, good taste and good price. Restaurants can make a good margin on water if they select the right one that customers like and order again.
Mondariz also has a 3-star superior taste and quality award from the Institute of Taste and Quality in Brussels which can be featured in a menu and helps to differentiate the water and increase the price and value to a customer.
Some restaurants around the world are starting to present a ‘water menu’, similar to one they would present for wine.
Asmaryan: The quality of the water and the overall design. It also depends on the restaurant and hotel. For some, the heritage and historical associations are important, while for others, only the quality, taste, texture and source are important.
Soifer: A product that’s unique and provides their customers with something that enables them to enjoy a new experience.
Langley: Increasingly, they’re looking for products with strong environmental credentials. Just because water is filtered from the tap or locally sourced and bottled, it doesn’t necessarily mean it’s the most environmentally sound option. Many imported waters have worked to create a lower net environmental impact than either of these seemingly ‘sure thing’ choices.
As consumers, especially younger ones, continue to be exposed to healthier alternatives to high sugar sodas and juices, they’re developing more sophisticated tastes for bottled water. And restaurants and hotels are choosing products, such as lower mineral waters, that satisfy those taste demands.
Distinctive background stories about the water’s provenance and unique packaging are also important. Differentiating from ultra-mainstream products gives the operator a certain caché and allows them to demand a higher price for specialty products. Charging an on-premise guest for a single bottle of water, when that guest has just seen an entire case of the same brand at the neighbourhood big-box discount store at the same price, sends out a bad value statement, and ultimately reduces the volume sold.
Grönfors: Waters that complement their menu and wines well.
Martí: Origin, brand image, taste, scent and price.
Smith: In the US, a domestic premium glass bottle is desired, especially one with a simple, elegant design.
Come back tomorrow for part 2 of this interview
Medina Bailey is editor of Water Innovation magazine.
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