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What do cranberry bogs, regenerative oyster farms and craft breweries have in common? They are all part of the adventure that FoodBev Media’s editorial director, Siân Yates, recently embarked on while travellinwg across Maine and Massachusetts with The US Sustainability Alliance (USSA) and Food Export–Northeast. With boots on the ground (and sometimes in the water), she experienced the trends, challenges and innovations driving New England’s food and beverage future. Here, she reveals her insights and discoveries.
Every so often, this role whisks you away on some rather unexpected and exciting journeys – from the cocoa and cashew plantations of the Ivory Coast to the cutting-edge biotech labs in Israel, and now, to the far northeast corner of the US. Maine is a place defined by its rugged Atlantic coastline, scattered islands, working harbours and endless pine forests. It’s a state where the pace slows, the air feels cleaner, and the connection to land and sea runs deep.
Maine is nicknamed 'Vacationland' for its natural beauty and its wealth of recreational activities. The nickname was officially adopted for the state’s license plates in 1936 to promote these vacation opportunities – and once you’re here, it’s easy to see why people are drawn to it. But while the scenery is spectacular, Maine has another claim to fame: its food, particularly its seafood. From fresh lobster to clams and oysters straight from the ocean, visitors quickly realise that they come for the nature…but they stay for the food.
Neighbouring Massachusetts offers a slightly different – yet equally fascinating – flavour of New England. Where Maine feels wild and windswept, Massachusetts is a place where history, innovation and culture intersect on almost every corner. It’s home to some of the oldest towns in the US, cobblestone streets, storied universities, and a food scene that mirrors both its rich past and forward-thinking spirit. (Boston is also home to Cheers, for any US sitcom fans out there!)
From the academic buzz of Tufts University to the coastal calm of Cape Cod, the state balances heritage with modernity. You’ll find classic New England staples – chowder, fresh-caught seafood, cornbread – served alongside boundary-pushing cuisine shaped by global influences and cutting-edge research hubs. It’s also a place where food and identity feel deeply connected. Whether you’re wandering through Boston’s public food markets or exploring the state’s growing network of craft breweries and farm-to-table restaurants, Massachusetts reminds you that great food tells a story.
Here, I share the journey I took across both states and the stories I uncovered along the way.
Day one – Maine, Portland
An intro to USSA and Food Export-Northeast
Our first day begins with an introduction to Maine and all it has to offer, along with presentations from the USSA and Food Export Northeast teams.
The USSA is a non-profit organisation championing sustainable food and agricultural production in the US. Representing nearly 30 farming, fishery and forestry associations, along with supply chain partners, the alliance drives around $10.6 billion in annual US food and agricultural exports to the UK and EU. USSA shares data on American sustainability programmes, supports its members’ commercial goals and helps develop new export opportunities.
Meanwhile, Food Export-Northeast is a non-profit dedicated to helping food and agricultural companies from the region bring their products to global markets. Founded in 1973, it operates as a State Regional Trade Group in partnership with the USDA Foreign Agricultural Service and state agricultural promotion agencies. From export education and marketing assistance to trade missions and connecting with international buyers, the organisation provides the tools and opportunities that help local producers turn regional flavours into worldwide success stories.
Tootie's Tempeh
A versatile, plant-powered protein
The first stop on the Maine trail is worker-owned tempeh brand Tootie’s, established in 2022. Co-founder Sarah Speare shows us around the factory, based in Biddeford, near Portland harbour.
Tempeh (pronounced tem-pay) originates from Java, Indonesia. While tofu is made from soybean milk, tempeh is made from fermented whole soybeans and has been a staple source of protein in Javanese cuisine for centuries. Its fermentation process gives it a firm texture and a distinctive nutty, earthy flavour.
How it’s made:
Soaking and dehulling: Soybeans are soaked in water for several hours to soften them, and then the skins are removed.
Cooking: The beans are boiled or steamed until tender, then dried. They must reach a specific temperature to accept the starter culture.
Inoculation: A fermentation starter, usually containing the mould Rhizopus oligosporus, is mixed into the cooled beans.
Fermentation: The inoculated beans are spread into a flat layer or packed into trays and left to ferment at a warm temperature (around 30-32°C / 86-90°F) for 24-48 hours. During this time, the mould grows and binds the beans into a dense, cake-like block.
Ready to eat or cook: The resulting tempeh has a firm texture and can be sliced, marinated, grilled, sautéed or steamed – “the possibilities are endless,” says Speare.
Traditionally, tempeh was made in banana leaves, but modern processing often involves the use of plastic bags. Tootie’s, however, employs high-tech fermentation tanks and a metal panning process developed over three years, the details of which are strictly confidential. Their method saves 100,000 plastic bags a year. Their soybeans come from organic farms practising regenerative agriculture.
The process, from start to finish, takes 24 hours. “Too much more time, and the tempeh becomes a mushroom. Too little, and it’s premature and tastes unripe,” explained Speare.
Speare also notes that sales of tempeh grew 10% in the US in the last year, highlighting its increasing popularity as a cleaner protein source rooted in traditional agriculture. The product also uses 90% less water than the meat industry, appealing to both health- and environmentally-conscious consumers.
Having now seen Tempeh's production first-hand, I’m keen to try this versatile ingredient, though it’s still a niche product, confined mainly to health food stores. Speare leaves us with a few recipe cards, enthusiastically explaining how tempeh can be used in just about any dish – from curries and chillies to nuggets and even desserts.
But for now, the sea is calling, and the next stop on the itinerary is lobster boating!
The luckiest catch
The daily life of a lobsterman
Down at the harbour, the sun, sea and fresh air set the mood for our next adventure – lobster boating! Brian and Pete lead the way, hustling us down to their boat. Once on the water, Captain Pete explains that Maine has over 4,000 coastal islands, ranging from large inhabited islands like Mount Desert Island and Vinalhaven to smaller, uninhabited ones designated as nature preserves or wildlife refuges.
I ask Pete how many species of lobster there are in Maine. “There’s only one species – the North Atlantic or American lobster (Homarus americanus) – but Maine lobster is the best, of course,” he grins.
Lobster fishing really is a fine art. And it’s a highly regulated process, especially in Maine, to ensure sustainability. Here’s how it typically works:
The gear (lobster traps): Fishermen use traps or pots, rectangular or cylindrical cages made of wood, metal or plastic. They have funnels that let lobsters in but make it hard to escape.
Baiting the trap: Traps are filled with bait, usually fish like herring or mackerel, to lure lobsters inside.
Setting the traps: Traps are dropped to the ocean floor from a boat, often connected to a buoy with a unique colour or mark so the fisherman can locate them later.
Waiting period: Traps are left underwater for 12-48 hours, giving lobsters time to enter.
Hauling in the catch: Fishermen use a crane or pot hauler to lift traps from the water and check in on their catch.
Sorting and regulations: Lobsters are sorted by size and sex. Undersized lobsters, egg-bearing females or lobsters that don’t meet local regulations must be returned to the water.
Brian measures a few lobsters during our trip, but none meet the size requirements. So why does he put the larger lobsters and egg-bearing females back in the water?
“Very large lobsters are usually older and highly fertile, producing more eggs than younger ones," he explains. "Returning them helps ensure strong, healthy breeding stock remains in the wild. For females, releasing them allows their eggs to hatch and grow into the next generation, helping maintain the population.”
Allagash Brewing Company
Belgian-style B-Corp beer
The weather has been sunny all day, so what better way to close it out than with some beer sampling? Celebrating three decades of brewing, Allagash Brewing Company is the final stop on today’s adventure. On arrival, we’re greeted by tour guide, Adam Doyle, who sets the tone for the afternoon. Adam introduces us to Branch Rothschild, head brewer, whose passion for brewing is immediately clear. “We’re not just making beer; we’re crafting experiences,” he says. “Every batch tells a story.”
Walking into the brew house, Rothschild explained the brewing process: “Here’s where the magic happens,” he adds, gesturing to towering silos filled with local grains. “We start by milling the grain to break it down, then mash it with hot water to convert starches into sugars. It’s a delicate balance of temperature and timing.”
The team’s commitment to local ingredients is clear: “Using grains from Maine not only supports local farmers but also enhances the flavour profile of our beers,” he noted. For manufacturers, it’s a reminder of the value in sourcing locally – for sustainability, but also product differentiation and quality.
We visit the pilot system, a small-scale brewing setup where creativity flourishes. Doyle tells us how staff contribute to new beer ideas: “Anyone can submit a recipe idea, and if it’s successful, we scale it up.”
Moving on to the packaging hall, kegs and cans move along automated lines with impressive precision. Their canning line can fill four to six cans per second, but with one interesting process tweak: Allagash stores kegs upside down to maintain the signature haze in Allagash White and keep the beer fresh during distribution – a subtle adjustment with a direct impact on product quality and consistency.
In the cellars, where Allagash’s wild beers are crafted, the rustic charm is captivating. “This is where we explore the wild side of brewing,” Doyle noted. “Our wild beers undergo spontaneous fermentation using wild yeast, which gives them unique flavours.” Rothschild adds, “It’s a labour of love. Some of these beers take years to develop, but the results are worth the wait.” It's a reminder that innovation doesn’t always mean speed...it can mean patience, precision and careful experimentation.
Sustainability is a recurring theme throughout the tour. Branch shares their waste reduction efforts: “We divert 98% of our waste from landfills. It’s not just about brewing great beer; it’s about brewing responsibly.” From local sourcing to recycling initiatives, Allagash demonstrates that operational efficiency and environmental stewardship can go hand-in-hand.
As the tour concludes, we’re allowed to sample one final drink. I opt for a blueberry wine I’d spotted in the cellar. Made from surplus blueberries, lightly carbonated and served cold, it’s an inventive product that reflects Allagash’s willingness to experiment and turn potential waste into something unique.
Day two – Maine, beyond Portland
Maine Crisp Company
Better with Buckwheat
I was thrilled to see crisps on the itinerary. As an avid crisp fan (Pickled Onion Monster Munch would be my death row meal), I was intrigued to see what Maine had to offer. Would they be better than Nik Naks, Skips, Hula Hoops, Quavers…? Well, no – but they weren’t aiming to be your typical UK crisp or even the usual US chip.
Established in 2015, Maine Crisp Company, now known as Better with Buckwheat, is producing something genuinely exciting, with a twist of health and wellness thrown in for good measure. This wholesome company is championing buckwheat, an often overlooked and underrated commodity. Despite the name, buckwheat isn’t actually a type of wheat – it’s a pseudocereal, related to rhubarb and sorrel. Naturally gluten-free, it’s perfect for the growing health market, yet still behaves like a grain in cooking and baking.
Buckwheat: The underrated supergrain
Not wheat, but versatile: Perfect for baking, snacks and more.
Nutrient powerhouse: Complete plant protein, high in fibre, antioxidants and minerals.
Low glycaemic & healthy: Supports stable blood sugar and gut health.
Sustainable & resilient: Regenerative crop that enriches soil, grows quickly and thrives in cooler climates. Underrated potential: Nutty flavour and functional benefits make it ideal for innovative, health-focused F&B products.
CEO Lewis Goldstein shares the story behind the company. Founded by Karen Getz, an organic dairy farmer and award-winning cheese maker, the company began in her kitchen. Struggling to find a suitable gluten-free cracker to pair with her cheeses, Karen set out to create her own.
“Starting in the kitchen allowed us to grow organically without the heavy financial burden of a commercial kitchen,” Goldstein explained. Since 2022, the company has grown from $450,000 in sales to an expected $5.9 million this year, with projections of $80 million by 2030 if the trajectory continues – a remarkable story of scaling innovation in the F&B sector.
Chad Pitt, plant manager, told us: “We source our buckwheat from a sixth-generation farm in northern Maine, which has allowed us to build a close relationship with local farmers”.
Buckwheat is resilient and cold-hardy. While the US is the fourth-largest producer, Russia dominates global production, followed by Ukraine and China. Buckwheat is traditionally used for dishes like kasha (roasted buckwheat groats, popular in Eastern European and Asian cuisines), but its uses are far broader: pasta, blinis, pancake mixes, granolas and even salad toppings.
At the facility, the buckwheat crisps (more like thin crackers) are made by mixing loaves, slicing them into thin layers and over-baking. Anything imperfect or leftover is donated to local pig farmers for animal feed, ensuring zero waste.
Of course, we couldn’t leave without tasting them ourselves. And they are truly delicious. The souvenir boxes we were given didn’t last long at all!
Blue Ox Malthouse
Pushing the possibilities of malt
Blue Ox Malthouse, based in Lisbon Falls, may be North America’s largest traditional malting facility, but there’s nothing old-fashioned about the way they approach the craft. Every silo, steep tank and kiln feels like part of a well-rehearsed system...one that turns humble grain into the backbone of beer, whisky, ready-to-drink cocktails, hard seltzers, baked goods and an increasingly experimental list of malt-based products.
Joel Alex, the company’s founder, meets us in the steeping area. He has the calm intensity of someone who spends their life thinking about grain, not as a commodity, but as a living material with quirks, moods and preferred working conditions.
Barley arrives cleaned and graded, then moves into steeping cycles where moisture is raised to around 45%. From a manufacturing perspective, this is the step that dictates how predictable the rest of the process will be. Too fast, and you stress the grain; too slow, and enzyme development lags. Air rests between steeps allow oxygenation and help even out hydration across the batch.
“You’re basically setting the operating window for the rest of the process,” Alex says. In other words: if steeping isn’t consistent, downstream conversion efficiency drops, and brewers feel it.
Germination at Blue Ox is controlled but deliberately traditional. Grain is kept at specific temperature and airflow conditions for several days. During this period, the embryo begins to grow, cell walls soften and the big transformation happens: enzymatic development.
For manufacturers, this is the real value of malt. Amylases, proteases and β-glucanases all reach functional levels during germination, determining everything from mash flow to fermentability to final flavour precursors.
Alex calls it “farming indoors, with less weather and more spreadsheets”. The process is understated, but accurate – germination is biology guided by data.
Kilning is where germination stops and functional properties are finalised. Blue Ox uses a stepped temperature regime: low, steady heat to dry the grain while preserving enzymes, followed by higher temperatures to develop colour and flavour through Maillard reactions.
A slight shift here – either in temperature or time – can change flavour, colour and even the fermentability curves of the malt. Brewers and distillers will notice. That’s why Blue Ox tracks airflow, humidity and temperature with precision normally seen in larger industrial facilities.
The malting process: A step-by-step
Cleaning: Grain (usually barley) is cleaned to remove stones, dust and other foreign matter so only healthy kernels go forward.
Steeping: Clean grain is soaked in water cycles until it reaches the target moisture (typically about 40-45%). This usually takes 36-48 hours and brings the seed out of dormancy.
Air rest: After steeping, the grain is drained and given short 'air rests' to re-oxygenate – this helps the embryo start growing uniformly.
Germination: The wetted grain is spread on a germination floor or placed in germination vessels and kept cool and aerated for several days (commonly three to six days). The grain sprouts and produces enzymes (like amylase) that will later convert starch into sugars.
Kilning (drying and curing): Germination is stopped by drying the green malt in a kiln. Low heat first removes moisture, then high temperatures cure the grain. Kiln time and temperature control the malt’s colour and flavour – pale malts are dried gently, roasted malts use higher heat for darker, toasted notes.
Cooling and resting: Once kilned, the malt is cooled and allowed to rest so flavours stabilise and moisture evens out.
Cleaning and grading: Final cleaning removes rootlets (germ growth) and other debris. Malt is then screened and graded by type and quality.
Milling or storage: Malt is either stored in silos for shipment or milled (crushed) to the required specification before being used in mashing for brewing or distilling.
One of the strengths of Blue Ox’s approach is its integration with regional grain growers. Maine’s agricultural landscape is dominated by potatoes, which remain a cornerstone of the state’s farming economy. But like any healthy system, monoculture has its limits – soils need rest, nutrients must be replenished and disease pressures managed.
That’s where crop rotation comes in. Farmers often alternate barley or other grains with potatoes, ensuring a steady supply of quality grain for breweries like Blue Ox. This system not only guarantees consistent, high-quality raw materials but also supports local, sustainable farming, helping Maine’s potato-growing regions remain productive year after year.
Why does this matter to manufacturers?
Whether you’re producing beer, whisky, RTDs or non-alcoholic grain-based beverages, the quality and consistency of malt directly affect:
Enzymatic power (and therefore brewhouse efficiency)
Mash viscosity and filtration performance
Sugar profile, fermentability and final ABV
Flavour development and stability
Colour targets and batch-to-batch reproducibility
Standing on the malt house floor, it’s clear that 'traditional' doesn’t mean outdated; it means intentional, with each step optimised for predictable, scalable outcomes. Ultimately, it’s the technical rigour that stands out here. Blue Ox isn’t trying to charm; it’s trying to produce malt that performs.
Jordan's Farm
Feeding the neighbourhood
Our final stop of the day is Jordan's Farm – a fifth-generation retail farm based in Cape Elizabeth. Crop rotation and diversification are central to Jordan’s ethos, and owner Penny Jordan certainly has her fingers in many pies. The farm focuses on sustainable growing practices while producing food for a healthy community – "Mainers feeding Mainers," as Penny tells us.
Jordan’s operates multiple farm stores, supplies wholesale produce to local food pantries and is active in anti-hunger initiatives. “We move over 160,000 pounds of food into the charitable food system each year,” she says, noting that programmes like Farms for Food Equity help minimise food waste and support local communities.
The farm grows a wide range of crops – from strawberries and lettuces to corn, pumpkins, tomatoes and potatoes – following careful crop rotation and soil management practices. “We grow a lot of corn…when you think about crop rotation, corn is going to end up in one of those fields at some point, and that’s guaranteed,” Penny explains. "It's called yellow gold for a reason."
These methods, combined with low-till practices and composting, maintain soil health while supporting consistent, high-quality yields.
Penny reflects on the evolution of Maine agriculture: “Once California started shipping to Boston, we had to transition to retail…you get more money for the product when you sell direct to consumers.” She also highlights the human element behind production: seasonal workers from Puerto Rico live on-site and handle planting, harvesting and field maintenance, “and they’re here for the bulk of the harvest,” she says, underscoring the importance of skilled labour.
Consumer trends, she notes, are as much about demographics as product choice. “That generation of women who shopped at farmers' markets has now come back, but you also see a lot more men coming in too,” she observes. Packaging preferences also shape purchasing habits: “People like packaging…so we try to figure out where it makes sense and where it doesn’t”.
Through careful management, community engagement and diversified production, Jordan’s Farm demonstrates how a mid-sized operation can combine traditional farming techniques with modern business thinking to sustain both the farm and the local food system.
Day three – Maine to Massachusetts
Bangs Island Mussels
A climate-positive family sea farm
Back in Portland for our last day in Maine, we head to Bangs Island Mussels, a regenerative family-owned sea farm cultivating mussels and kelp. Co-owner and CEO Matt Moretti describes the company as “a sustainable aquaculture company with a mission to grow the finest seafood using only environmentally sustainable methods. That drives everything we do here.”
Primarily a mussel farm, Bangs Island Mussels has diversified over the years, adding seaweed and kelp cultivation for the past 14 years, and more recently, oysters. “We are always attempting to farm an ecosystem rather than a monoculture,” Moretti explains. “Mussels and kelp benefit each other and the environment in complementary ways. Oysters are filter-feeding shellfish too, so it’s an opportunity to be more positive and diversify revenue streams."
The farm claims to be the largest rope-grown mussel operation on the US East Coast, producing over 600,000 pounds of mussels a year, with plans to increase to a million pounds by 2031. Their products are sold across the continental US, avoiding international shipping to keep the carbon footprint low. “We prefer to ship via refrigerated truck…air freight is contrary to our mission of helping the environment while producing food,” Moretti says
Bangs Island Mussels employs year-round harvesting for mussels, while oysters are seasonal and kelp grows mainly in the winter months. Mussels take between 18 and 30 months to reach market size, starting from seed lines that hang 35 feet under floating rafts. Protecting the mussels during growth is key: “Mussels do best when they feel comfortable. If they feel threatened, they grow a thicker shell, which reduces meat quality. Our goal is the thinnest shell and fattest meat possible.”
The farm also invests heavily in hatchery technology, producing mussel larvae in controlled environments to ensure a reliable seed supply as climate change affects traditional collection methods. “We’re trying to push this technology forward so it can scale for the broader industry,” Moretti tells us.
The processing facility is equally detailed, with mussels cleaned, polished, de-bearded, graded and hand-inspected before packing. Moretti notes they are exploring automation, including optical sorters, to improve efficiency while maintaining quality standards. Defective but live mussels are returned to the ocean, supporting local ecosystems and wild populations.
Sustainability is woven into every part of the business. The farm has reduced single-use plastics, invested in biodegradable packaging and even considers circular nutrient cycles with kelp – using it as fertiliser to recycle nutrients back to the land. “We had a greenhouse gas analysis done a year ago, and it put us well below any other animal protein – on par with plants and soy,” Moretti adds.
Annie Simpson, COO, explains the regulatory side of aquaculture in Maine: all sites are leased from the state, and obtaining a new site can take up to five years. Compliance and careful site selection are critical to success. “We have to submit a long process…checking currents, food sources, boat traffic, proximity to houses – it’s a lot,” she says.
Looking ahead, Bangs Island Mussels plans to expand its oyster operations, develop value-added mussel products, and continue exploring innovative uses for kelp. “We want to produce excellent food locally, sustainably and responsibly, while supporting jobs and the environment,” Moretti explains.
From rafts in Casco Bay to the processing lines on land, Bangs Island Mussels demonstrates how science, sustainability and hands-on labour combine to produce high-quality seafood while nurturing both the ocean and the local community.
Oiva Hannula & Sons Cranberry Bog
At the edge of the bog
The whole trip has been phenomenal so far, but there was one event on the menu that most sparked my curiosity and excitement...the chance to don some waders and step into a cranberry bog! We travelled to Plymouth County, Massachusetts, to meet Brian Wick with Massachusetts Cranberries and Scott Hannula, a fourth-generation farmer at Oiva Hannula & Sons, to learn more about this unique approach to cranberry harvesting.
Cranberries don’t actually grow in water – they thrive on dry beds. As Hannula explains: “The first question I always get asked is, are they growing in water? The answer is no, they grow dry. Dry means everything to us. We need to keep the root system at the moisture level we want.” The bogs are only flooded twice a year: once in winter to protect against frost, and again at harvest.
The harvesting process is surprisingly mechanical and efficient. A large machine knocks the berries off the vines so they float to the surface, where they’re guided into a 'cran barrier' and pumped through a detrasher. “All the good fruit goes into the big truck. The water, we recycle it and it goes right back into the bog itself,” Hannula tells us. Clean water is critical – not just for harvesting, but also for irrigation and frost protection. “Good clean water is our most valuable asset here…we reuse it as much as we can.”
Not all cranberries are created equal. Fresh berries in stores are carefully handled to avoid dents, while those destined for processing can have minor imperfections. Hannula says: “Fresh cranberries get dent-free treatment. The ones we harvest here are all dented – they go for further processing into juice, dried cranberries, sauces or powders”.
A bite of the bog
I wade into the middle of the bog, curiosity getting the better of me. I pick up a cranberry and pop it straight into my mouth… and it’s nothing like what I expected. Tart, sharp and decidedly unsweet, it’s a far cry from the sugary cranberry juice we’re used to from the supermarket. On its own, raw and untamed, the cranberry packs not only a punch, but also a host of impressive health benefits:
Rich in antioxidants – helps protect cells from damage and may reduce inflammation.
Supports urinary tract health – contains compounds that can prevent certain bacteria from attaching to the bladder wall.
Boosts heart health – may help lower blood pressure and improve cholesterol levels.
Improves digestion – high in fibre, which supports gut health.
Supports oral health – compounds in cranberries can help prevent bacteria that cause cavities and gum disease.
May aid immune function – vitamin C and phytonutrients help strengthen the body’s defences.
Potential anti-cancer properties – early studies suggest cranberries may help slow the growth of some cancer cells.
Harvest lasts 35-40 days, and once the bogs are emptied, Hannula and his team turn to maintenance. “Some guys actually go out and work on the beds… Other guys work on all of our rolling stock in the shop. We keep everybody employed full-time year-round,” he says.
Wick gives us some context for the industry: “Cranberries as a cultivated crop started here as an industry in 1816…they’ve been growing here for 200 plus years”.
Standing in the bog, surrounded by floating red berries and the hum of machinery, it was easy to see why cranberries have remained a staple crop in Massachusetts for over two centuries. The scale, care and innovation behind each harvest was genuinely impressive.
Westport Sea Farms
Sea-to-table oysters
Arriving at Westport Point, the weather had taken a turn – strong winds make it impossible for the oyster boat to head out. “So we’re going to sample fresh oysters right here on the dock,” enthuses Kerian Fennelly, co-owner and proprietor of Westport Sea Farms. Fennelly is a former lobster fisherman who has been a familiar face around these docks for nearly 30 years.
Massachusetts is home to roughly 400 oyster farms, and Westport Sea Farms is one of the region’s well-known operations. Oyster farming here is a delicate balance of timing, tides and water quality. Oysters start life in hatcheries, where larvae are nurtured in controlled tanks until they attach to small shells or 'spats'. From there, they are moved into the tidal flats or racks in the estuary, where they grow for anywhere from 18 months to three years, depending on the desired size and market.
“Fresh oysters taste completely different out of the water,” says Fennelly, as he demonstrates how the oysters are handled. “We monitor salinity, temperature and the presence of plankton constantly. Even small changes can affect growth and flavour.” The oysters are typically grown in mesh bags or on racks elevated off the mud to protect them from predators and ensure good water flow. Farmers periodically rotate the bags and clean the shells to prevent fouling, which keeps the oysters healthy and plump.
Harvesting is equally precise. Oysters are carefully lifted from the water, sorted and quickly chilled to preserve their freshness. Fennelly points out that the oysters we’re tasting straight from the dock are at their absolute peak: “You get the briny, clean flavour that really reflects the estuary they grew in. Nothing added, nothing taken away."
Westport's own riptide oysters are brought out for us to try, and they are some of the best I’ve ever tasted – fresh, meaty and clean, with none of the lingering aftertaste you sometimes get from frozen or less-fresh shellfish. Even on a blustery day, sampling oysters here offers a real sense of the dedication and technical expertise behind Massachusetts’ oyster industry. For Fennelly and his fellow farmers, every oyster tells the story of the water it grew in, and careful cultivation ensures that each one reaches the table at its best.
One final question for Fennelly: what happens to the oyster shells once the meat has been removed? “Some people use them for landscaping, for their driveways or gardens. Some are put back into the water to help rebuild reefs and support marine habitats,” he said. “The oysters attach to the shells and use them as a platform to grow vertically.
Tasting the tide: More about oysters
Filter feeders: Oysters are natural filter feeders, meaning they improve water quality by filtering out plankton, algae and particulates from their surroundings. A single oyster can filter up to 50 gallons of water per day.
Growth cycles: Oysters grow in stages – spat (baby oysters), juvenile and adult. Farmers often cultivate them on floating cages, racks or in bags to optimise growth and protect them from predators.
Salinity sensitivity: Oysters are very sensitive to water salinity. Too low or too high salinity can stunt growth or increase mortality, so monitoring water quality is critical for successful farming.
Spat collection: Farmers often use 'spat collectors' – pieces of shell, mesh or artificial substrates – to encourage oyster larvae to settle and attach, which is the first step in a new generation of oysters.
Disease management: Oysters can be vulnerable to diseases like Dermo and MSX. Sustainable oyster farms often rotate harvest areas or use disease-resistant strains to maintain healthy populations.
Environmental impact: Unlike other forms of aquaculture, oyster farming has a low environmental footprint. Properly managed oyster beds can enhance biodiversity and create habitats for other marine species.
Harvesting methods: There are multiple methods, including hand harvesting, tongs, dredges and rack-and-bag systems. Each method is chosen based on water depth, oyster size and environmental conditions.
Seasonal taste variation: The flavour of oysters changes with the seasons, influenced by water temperature, salinity and the type of plankton available. Many aficionados prefer oysters harvested in cooler months for a firmer texture and cleaner taste.
"There’s a huge difference in taste depending on how the oysters are grown and their variety," notes Fennelly. "For example, beef-plum oysters and offshore oysters are particularly popular here."
Economic importance: In Massachusetts alone, oyster farming is a multi-million-dollar industry supporting hundreds of jobs, from hatcheries and farmers to distributors and restaurants.
Sustainable practices: Modern farms often recycle water, monitor local ecosystems and avoid over-harvesting wild populations to ensure long-term sustainability.
Day four – Bedford to Boston
University of Massachusetts Dartmouth (UMass) School for Marine Science & Technology (SMAST)
Managing sea scallops sustainably
This morning, our group visited UMass Dartmouth’s School for Marine Science & Technology (SMAST) to meet professor Kevin Stokesbury – a key figure in the recovery and long-term management of the US sea scallop fishery. He tells us that the US is tackling several major aquaculture challenges head-on: climate change – including ocean warming, pollution and acidification – sustainable food security, renewable and sustainable energy development, and coastal health and resilience.
American lobster, oysters and New England groundfish are major drivers of the region’s economy, but Atlantic sea scallops are what brought us here today...a highly prized seafood with strong demand in both domestic and international markets. Stokesbury explained that scallops can grow up to 200mm, and a single generation can produce more than a quintillion eggs. However, he notes that overharvesting has caused a decline in the fishing industry. Starfish are also a nuisance predator for scallops and a disease had previously wiped out populations. But, Stokesbury says, the starfish are starting to make a comeback.
Stokesbury's research, conducted hand-in-hand with the fishing industry, is widely credited with transforming the sea scallop fishery from a depleted stock in the 1990s into one of the most valuable and sustainably managed fisheries in the world.
We gathered in SMAST’s research facility, where he opened with a reminder of just how close the industry came to collapse. “In the early 1990s, scallop biomass was at a historic low – we were talking about a 90% decline in some areas,” he adds. “The fleet was struggling, the ecosystem was struggling and everybody knew something had to change.”
What followed was the development of SMAST’s innovative video survey system – a collaborative model that brought scientists and fishermen onto the same boats. “The fishermen told us: if you want to understand what’s happening out there, then come out with us,” Stokesbury explains. “So we did. And that decision changed everything.”
Rather than relying solely on dredge surveys, the SMAST team created a non-destructive underwater camera system to map scallop densities with precision. This method allowed the managers to identify areas of high biomass that traditional surveys were missing, and helped inform a new rotational management plan.
“One of the biggest breakthroughs,” he continues, “was showing that scallops grow fast, and if you give them even a short break from fishing pressure, the biomass can rebound dramatically.”
This evidence laid the groundwork for the rotational area management system used today, where zones are periodically opened and closed to maintain long-term stock health. The results have been remarkable: “Within a decade, the industry went from near collapse to one of the top-valued fisheries in the country,” Stokesbury notes. “And that’s because science and industry sat at the same table.”
Walking through the research labs, we see examples of the gear, imaging technology and data visualisation tools that underpin SMAST’s work – all designed to give fisheries managers a real-time, evidence-based view of stock conditions. Stokesbury emphasises that the partnership model remains essential. “Fishermen want sustainability as much as scientists do,” he says. “This is their livelihood, and they’re incredibly data-literate. They understand that good science protects the future of the fishery.”
Before we left, he offered one final thought that summed up much of the ethos of the day:
“Sustainability isn’t a buzzword here – it’s a working practice. The sea scallop fishery recovered because people chose to share knowledge, take risks and trust the science. It’s a system built on cooperation, and that’s why it works.”
Eastern Fisheries
From factory floor to high seas
As we move on to our next location, something Stokesbury said at SMAST stuck with me: “One in ten scallops globally goes through Eastern Fisheries”. That statistic alone sets the stage for just how pivotal this company is in the scallop industry. And so, our time with Eastern Fisheries began not at sea, but on land – inside one of the largest seafood processing and distribution facilities in New Bedford. It’s a vast, highly engineered operation, like stepping inside the logistical backbone of the US scallop industry.
Eastern’s customers include major retailers and foodservice companies. Around 40% of its seafood is exported, while the remaining 60% stays within the US. Key export markets include the Netherlands, Germany and several Eastern European countries.
Our tour began in the QC office, a small but vital hub where four to five specialists monitor production. Joseph Marshall, Eastern Fisheries’ executive VP, explains: “If at any point we are off course, no matter what it may be…all the individuals in here have the authority to go out and stop the line immediately.”
They conduct online checks every 15 minutes to ensure weights, cuts and glaze meet exact customer specifications. Finished products are also periodically tested, sometimes months after packing, to confirm consistency. Incoming raw materials are rigorously tested for moisture content, a surprisingly critical factor for quality.
Most retail scallops are sold under private labels. Marshall notes: “There are some small pockets of business where you’ll see ours, but as far as here locally, you will not.” Byproducts – from bones and offcuts to smaller scallop pieces – are fully utilised in pet food, fertilisers, lobster bait, soups, pasta and seasonings. “Nothing gets discarded in any way,” he emphasises.
Life at sea
Next, we board one of Eastern Fisheries' 17 scallopers. Ronald Enoksen, president at Eastern Fisheries, explains the limits on their operations: “We have a hybrid. You can catch all you want, but as soon as your days are up, you’re all done.” Environmental constraints – marine mammals, sensitive habitats and wind farms – further limit operations. He says a typical scallop boat costs around $5 million.
Wind farms alone have claimed 8-12% of traditional fishing grounds, and Ronald says wryly: “They talk about mitigation plans…the amount of money you have sounds big, but not with all these boats. It’s peanuts.” Meanwhile, warm waters and rising predator populations like starfish are ongoing threats, showing how environmental changes directly impact productivity.
The vessels are a blend of high-tech and traditional design. Fresh scallops are shucked at sea, retaining only the abductor muscle. Ronald adds: “We have regulations on our boats… we are not equipped or set up to do frozen at sea. So everything is landed fresh.” The wheelhouse brims with navigation and monitoring tech, such as AIS transponders, depth sounders and radar systems, to ensure regulatory compliance.
Crew numbers have decreased due to limited fishing opportunities. Ronald remarks: “We used to have 13 men to go fishing. Now we’re down to seven. When things are going, six is enough.” Every trip is tracked, weighed and reported, leaving no room for under-the-table sales.
Eastern Fisheries walks a fine line between productivity and stewardship. Ronald shares “In this particular year… our vessels here stay tied up to the docks much more than they fish.” Gear restrictions, closed areas and careful monitoring of scallop biomass are complemented by compliance with federal and regional fisheries councils.
Seeing the process from dock to facility really brings home the complexity behind every scallop on the plate. Eastern Fisheries operates at the intersection of tradition, regulation and innovation, making every bite a result of science, craftsmanship and careful stewardship of the sea.
Day five – Final goodbyes to Boston
Tufts University – Friedman School of Nutrition & Science Policy
An education like no other
I was particularly excited to visit Tufts University this morning, given its pioneering work and research in the cellular agriculture space – an area of great interest to me, especially since FoodBev recently launched a new website dedicated to this field and other innovative advancements, New Tech Foods. Tufts was founded in Boston in 1978, making it relatively young compared with many of the surrounding universities and Ivy League institutions. Yet this youthfulness seems to work to its advantage, giving the university a fresh outlook and a more progressive perspective on some of the more arcane challenges facing the food and beverage sector today.
What makes Tufts especially unique is that it is home to the only stand-alone school of nutrition in the US. The Friedman School of Nutrition Science and Policy is where food systems and health meet science and policy, and is widely recognised for its interdisciplinary approach. Researchers there are deeply involved in shaping national nutrition guidance, advancing innovations such as cellular agriculture, exploring global food security, and understanding how social, economic and environmental forces influence what – and how – people eat. Its work bridges everything from cutting-edge laboratory science to real-world policymaking, making it one of the most influential voices driving the future of nutrition and sustainable food systems.
Tufts' professor Tim Griffin gives a sweeping overview of the interconnected challenges that shape our food landscape today – from dietary guidelines and nutrition equity to sustainability, climate pressures and the realities of sourcing food at both local and global levels.
He stressed that sustainable food systems cannot be separated from human behaviour or social realities. “People don’t eat nutrients, they eat food,” he reminds us, underscoring that any meaningful shift must consider accessibility, affordability and cultural suitability. Griffin speaks about how climate change is reshaping agricultural regions, forcing a reconsideration of supply chains and resilience planning. More frequent extreme weather events, degraded soils and shifting growing zones are creating new pressures on producers and consumers alike.
He also explores the tension between the romanticism of 'local food' and the practicality of global trade. Local can be beneficial, he says, but it isn’t always inherently more sustainable – transportation emissions are only one piece of a much larger picture that includes yield, input use, distribution efficiency and waste.
Next, Tufts alum commissioner Ashley Randle offers a reminder of how interconnected these issues truly are. She spoke to us about the importance of balance – balancing working waterfronts with conservation, balancing economic vitality with environmental protection, balancing innovation with the needs of local communities. Her reflections ground the otherwise high-level policy discussions, highlighting how regulatory decisions ripple outward across farmers, fishers, ecosystems and supply chains.
Ashley also highlights the significance of due diligence, permitting structures and transparency in ensuring long-term sustainability, drawing parallels between agricultural and marine systems. Her emphasis on maintaining the viability of local producers while navigating the pressures of climate change and shifting consumer preferences echoed many of the themes raised throughout the trip.
Agrotourism: A love story
Agritourism blends agriculture and tourism, offering visitors a hands-on experience of farms, fisheries and food production while providing farmers with additional income and promoting sustainable practices. In Maine, it often takes a rural and immersive form, from lobster boat tours and u-pick blueberry farms to stays on working dairy or vegetable farms, as well as maple sugaring and oyster or kelp farm visits. Massachusetts combines history and accessibility, with apple orchards, cider mills, wineries and flower farms, alongside educational programmes at universities and demonstration farms that showcase climate-resilient and sustainable methods. Across both states, agritourism supports local economies, connects people with the sources of their food, and celebrates regional culture.
Story Reed, assistant director at the Massachusetts Division of Marine Fisheries, speaks next, emphasising the multi-layered approach to resource management. He explains: “We have the federal government, regional bodies like the Atlantic States Marine Fisheries Commission, and then the states themselves, all setting rules and quotas to ensure sustainable harvests”.
Reed highlights that this management is “based on the best available science” and extends to supporting biodiversity, aligning with Tufts’ broader initiatives. Reed also discusses Massachusetts’ new 25-year biodiversity goals, noting: “Biodiversity in Massachusetts is acknowledging that Massachusetts is a home to an extraordinary variety and abundance of life… [it] touches on the economy, sustainable fisheries, recreation, tourism, healthy communities and climate resilience.”
Boston Public Market (BPM)
Year-round indoor market and feast for the senses
Being hungry at BPM is both a blessing and a curse. With over 30 New England artisans and food producers under one roof offering fresh groceries, prepared meals, crafts, speciality items and local libations, it can be hard to know where to start. To help make my decision, Aaron DeVoria, market operations manager, shared a bit about the market’s history.
"Currently celebrating its 10th anniversary, BPM is a non-profit organisation set up in an old state building that had been dormant for more than 12 years," he says. The state invested $50 million to kickstart the project, and the doors officially opened in 2015. The market focuses on local products, with its main goal to help start-ups get their businesses off the ground. BPM is divided into three sections: groceries, casual eating and artistry, the latter featuring everything from jewellery and clothing to candles and other handmade goods.
I settle on Mr Tamole’s Puebla-style tacos, a Red Apple Farm apple cider doughnut and something called a Laser Cat IPA – which turns out to be stronger than it looks. I hope it's a meal fit for a Bostonian!
Fancypants Baking Co
Crispy, snackable and just the right amount of fancy
Stepping into Fancypants Baking Co's facility feels (and smells) like entering a world where indulgence meets innovation. Justin Housman, the COO, greets us with stories as rich as their cookies: “My wife started this business out of an apartment kitchen in Boston back in 2004… suddenly our whole house was covered with cookies very, very quickly.” What began as a scrappy, hands-on venture has grown into a nimble manufacturing powerhouse with a unique take on environmental responsibility.
Walking the production floor, Housman explains the dual nature of their business: brand-focused indulgence and co-manufacturing for other clients. “We do our brand...focused on indulgence. All-butter cookies, no oils of any kind, real cane sugar, very high percentages of chocolate or caramel.” Meanwhile, their private-label work allows them to bring creative flavours to retailers nationwide, like matcha white chocolate chip cookies and salted caramel cold brew coffee cookies.
What stood out most was their commitment to sustainability through upcycled ingredients. Housman showed us their oat milk flour, explaining: “Upcycling is repurposing a food that would have otherwise gone to waste… it adds fibre and protein back to the cookie.” He stresses that while it’s not a consumer-facing trend yet – “the first iteration, we launched a product line called Upcycled Cookies… it was a flop because people thought it was made with trash” – it makes a real environmental impact, saving water and CO₂ emissions upstream and downstream.
Packaging is another area where Fancypants leads by example. Housman describes their choices: “This is number one PET, 100% recyclable, from 100% recycled bottles...Less than 1% of companies in the US are using recyclable flexible film.” They balance practicality with sustainability, even if the recycling system isn’t perfect: “Most flexible packaging in the US is multi-layer and cannot be recycled. This has to go to an in-store drop-off bin”.
Throughout the tour, it was clear that every decision blends passion with pragmatism. “The aim is to make cookies that taste great, that happen to have a positive environmental impact. I legally am not allowed to tell you they are good for you.” And yet, the care for people and planet permeates every corner – from energy efficiency to food waste converted into green electricity via Farm Powered.
By the end, it was impossible not to admire the balance of creativity, quality and sustainability that Fancy Pants has achieved. Housman quipped about exporting to the UK: “A lot of Europeans would find them sweet… even our meat is sweet, for crying out loud. It’s unbelievable. ”Sweetness aside, the ingenuity behind these cookies left a lasting impression… even more so because I’m still working my way through the mountain of samples we were graciously offered at the end of the tour!
Commonwealth Kitchen
The power of inclusive entrepreneurship
Our final stop on the New England tour brings us to CommonWealth Kitchen, a vibrant shared culinary workspace that perfectly captures the region’s spirit of innovation and community. The facility, buzzing with small-batch producers, shared kitchens and the hum of industrial equipment, serves as both an incubator and accelerator for food start-ups trying to break into the market.
There are now 50 businesses working out of the space, with around 90% being women- and BAME-owned. Co-founder Jen Faigel describes the model as “a gym membership for food” – a place designed to bridge the gap between what an artisan producer can manage and what a true scale-up can achieve. Colleges and hospitals are among their biggest customers, including local heavyweights Harvard and MIT. Innovation is central to the kitchen’s success, too: in a bid to boost visibility and footfall, the team even launched its own park of food trucks beside the city zoo, giving small producers a vibrant platform to grow.
As Jen puts it: "The kitchen exists to give small businesses the tools and the room to grow safely, while also helping them navigate everything from food safety to allergen management". She spoke candidly about the complexity of running a shared space, noting that “communication is everything” when dozens of producers share the same facility, storage and workflow.
During the pandemic, the organisation pivoted to support local restaurants and frontline workers, a moment Jen says is “the hardest and proudest thing we’ve ever done”. Today, the team still processes thousands of pounds of surplus farm produce – including the mountains of tomatoes currently stacked in storage – transforming them into sauces and other products for schools, colleges, local restaurants, cafés and supermarkets. It’s a simple yet powerful intervention that shows just how much waste can be prevented when the right infrastructure and intention come together.
The hub’s small size is its superpower. “Cranberries, which are only really used at Christmas, are chucked away quite frequently,” Jen explains. “So we made a cranberry BBQ sauce – and the Boston Globe picked up the story. Now it’s selling in grocery. That took eight weeks from concept to launch. Our size enables us to be nimble and flexible and get things off the ground quickly.”
With packaging, labelling and even custom gift boxes all handled in-house, CommonWealth Kitchen continues to boost visibility for its entrepreneurs, while Jen emphasises the wider goal: “Food manufacturing can change communities when people have the chance to participate in it”.
Despite its successes, the future of the kitchen is far from guaranteed. Much of its work relies on grant funding and public support, and Jen is candid about the uncertainty ahead. “We only operate when we have funding behind us,” she says, the weight of it unmistakable. “There’s so much more we could do, but without sustained investment, it’s hard to know how long we can keep this going.” It’s a sobering reminder that even the most innovative, community-driven food spaces depend on stable financial backing to survive...and that the work happening within these walls is too valuable to lose.
Final thoughts
One thing became clear over the course of this trip: local matters. From small kitchens transforming surplus produce to lobster and oyster farms sharing best practices, equipment and talent, there’s a real appetite for food that is rooted in community. Across towns and cities, we’ve seen companies and communities working hand in hand, each mindful of their local resources, tastes and needs.
It’s not just about sourcing ingredients nearby – it’s about building ecosystems where everyone benefits, from growers to chefs to consumers. Whether it’s innovative pop-ups, shared kitchen spaces or partnerships between farms and towns, the common thread is collaboration with a local lens. The popularity of these initiatives shows that people want food that tells a story, connects them to their surroundings, and supports the networks that sustain it.
Locality is at the heart of how communities in Maine and Massachusetts are reimagining food systems, making them more resilient, sustainable and delicious.
