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Siân Yates

Siân Yates

31 October 2024

Opinion: The problem and the payoff of farming natural vanilla

Opinion: The problem and the payoff of farming natural vanilla
Ugandan vanilla plays a critical role in the food and beverage industry, where its unique flavour profile elevates products worldwide. In this feature, Prossy Tumushabe, executive director of the Association of Vanilla Exporters of Uganda (VANEX), highlights vanilla’s rich history, complex cultivation and the essential need for sustainable sourcing to support both growers and the environment alike.

Since the time of the Aztec, Mayan, and Totonac civilisations in Mesoamerica, cultures around the globe have cherished the unique and complex profile of the vanilla bean. Used as a flavouring, perfume, medicine and even as a good luck charm, vanilla has found countless ways to enrich our lives for centuries. The demand for this aromatic bean has only grown over time, becoming a staple flavour in numerous food and beverage applications – and that trend shows no signs of slowing.


Yet despite its prevalence in modern products, the journey from vine to consumer favourite has never been short or simple. From its early use by pre-Columbian Maya and Aztecs to the delicacies enjoyed at Queen Elizabeth I’s court, and now in today's food and beverage offerings, vanilla has long been prized as a luxury ingredient. Its precise and intricate cultivation process only adds to its allure.


Pure vanilla is the second most expensive spice in the world, after saffron. Great care and expertise are needed to take this fragile and temperamental plant and turn it into the world-renowned ingredient that we all know and enjoy.



A committed, intricate cultivation process


The particular species of orchid that the vanilla plant belongs to can take up to three years to yield its first fruits. This is further complicated by the orchid blooming for less than 24 hours once every harvest season. Many regions where vanilla is grown require delicate, hand pollination by skilled growers. If farmers miss the pollination window or damage a flower during the process, the plant won’t fruit until at least the next harvesting season.


Each vanilla bean results from one hand pollinated flower, and on average, up to 40 beans (each ~12-inches in length) are needed to produce 1 kilogram of green vanilla. Given a 90% pollination success rate, over 90,000 flowers must be pollinated in a garden that produces 2,250 kilograms of green vanilla.


Even after successful pollination, an additional six to nine months are required for the pods to mature enough for harvest. Growers must possess a very specific set of skills to identify the subtle differences between a ripe and unripe vanilla bean. The vanilla bean must be ripe to be usable; otherwise, only the sour or bitter flavours are preserved.


Once ripened and harvested, vanilla beans undergo a meticulous curing process to develop their flavour. This involves four stages: dipping the beans in hot water to release flavour-producing enzymes, tightly wrapping them in blankets to sweat and convert compounds into vanillin, drying them to achieve the correct moisture content, and conditioning them in wax-lined boxes to enhance aroma and flavour. Each stage requires careful attention to prevent mould and ensure the beans develop their rich, complex taste.



The case for diversification


While these techniques are essentially the same in all the tropical climates where vanilla is grown like Indonesia, Uganda, and Mexico a majority of the world’s vanilla supply is grown in Madagascar. Despite being the primary sourcing region for many brands and manufacturers, Madagascar's vanilla industry is often faced with numerous challenges. Extreme weather conditions can devastate crops and cause volatility in the global market, leading to price fluctuations that impact growers and buyers alike.


Additional issues such as theft, labour shortages, and the need for sustainable and ethical farming practices, add to the complexity and highlight larger issues affecting the industry as a whole. These types of issues make it difficult for food and beverage companies to deliver the natural vanilla to those consumers who love and crave it.


Given these challenges, diversification in sourcing has become essential to maintaining a steady supply. Relying too heavily on one region increases vulnerability to market instability. However, sourcing from lesser-known regions can present solutions to at least some of these problems. Uganda, for example, is a landlocked country that is far less susceptible to extreme weather events and sees two vanilla harvests per year due to its ideal growing conditions.


Sourcing from multiple regions not only mitigates risks associated with environmental and geopolitical factors but also enriches product offerings by introducing a broader range of flavour profiles. While both Madagascar and Ugandan vanilla share bold flavours because of their high vanillin content, Ugandan vanilla has distinguishing notes of buttery cacao and figs that come from its terroir. This approach not stabilises supply and also aligns with consumer demands for high-quality, natural vanilla.



The risks of going synthetic


So, therein lies the question if so much time, effort and expense are involved in farming vanilla, why go to all that trouble? Why not opt for a synthetic alternative that is cheaper and easier to produce? The truth is, many do. The global network of vanilla growers simply cannot keep up with the ballooning demand for vanilla, and around 90% of the vanilla currently in the market is synthetic.


From a profit perspective, synthetic vanilla makes a lot of sense. More of it can be produced, sold and distributed around the world without all the limitations that come with farming natural vanilla. However, while it has potential to alleviate some of the volatility and risk that inherently comes with the industry, going the route of synthetic alternatives comes at a significant cost.


The attributes that have earned vanilla its place in the pantheon of spices are all but entirely lost in imitation vanilla products. The primary component of a natural vanilla bean is called 'vanillin' the defining, characteristic flavour most closely associated with what we think of when we think of vanilla. But natural vanilla also contains dozens of other complex flavours and aromas that can differ based on the region where it is grown and the method used for curing.


Some cultivars are bold and smoky while others are smooth and creamy but all offer a diverse palette of taste experiences that contribute to the rich and nuanced profile of true vanilla. Synthetic vanilla compounds, on the other hand, get their flavour from vanillin alone.


Think of it like a house without any doors, windows or furniture. While it can still technically provide shelter, it lacks all the things that give it comfort and character. Using a synthetic option ultimately sacrifices the quality of a product and robs consumers of truly remarkable taste.


Synthetic vanilla has become so dominant in the market that many consumers have never experienced the rich, nuanced flavours of true natural vanilla. This presents a unique opportunity to reintroduce them to the authentic, elevated taste of real vanilla, offering a novel sensory experience that stands apart from other products in the market.


The negative impact of synthetic vanilla doesn’t stop at the consumer experience. More importantly, it threatens the livelihoods of growers – many of whom are women and youth – who rely on vanilla cultivation as a critical source of income. The economic and social stability of these communities is tied to the continued demand for natural vanilla. Abandoning natural vanilla not only compromises product quality but also undermines efforts to support sustainable agriculture practices and farmer livelihoods that many growing regions are working to build.



Securing the future


To fully take advantage of the benefits of natural vanilla, buyers, brands and manufacturers are encouraged to diversify their sources of vanilla to reduce the impact of shortages and price volatility. By sourcing vanilla from a variety of regions, companies can ensure a more stable supply and support the sustainability of the industry. This diversified strategy not only secures a consistent supply of high-quality vanilla but also helps preserve the integrity of the product, maintaining the unique sensory experiences that consumers cherish.


In addition, vanilla helps our environment and climate. The steamy, tropical rainforests where vanilla is grown are responsible for absorbing much of the carbon dioxide that is released because of our fossil fuel consumption. Vanilla as an orchid grows on trees and, therefore, its agronomic practices promote agroforestry which will minimise potential negative impact on the environment and climate. By promoting shade-grown vanilla, there is reduction in the pressure on forests and biodiversity is saved.


Investing in the communities that grow and care for vanilla crops is crucial to securing the future of the industry. This means not only ensuring decent grower incomes but also supporting local infrastructure, education, and agricultural practices. Such investments help build resilient grower communities, enhance product quality, and promote ethical and sustainable practices throughout the supply chain.


By working with suppliers to foster strong relationships with growers and committing to these principles, brands can secure a consistent supply of high-quality vanilla while contributing to the long-term viability of the industry.


#opinion #vanilla #flavour #ingredients #sustainability #ingredientsourcing

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