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The global consumer obsession with protein shows no signs of slowing, but is this nutrient really the health hero it is made out to be? Some nutrition experts are challenging the protein craze, suggesting clever marketing has shaped perceptions and urging a shift in focus toward whole foods and better dietary quality. With rising concerns over ultra-processed products and public health crises, is it time to rethink what truly nourishes us? FoodBev's Siân Yates explores.

Just over a year ago, nutrition specialist and author Tim Spector joined Steven Bartlett on The Diary of a CEO podcast, challenging some of the most persistent myths surrounding nutrition, particularly the public's obsession with protein intake.

Fast forward to today, and that interview is making the rounds once again – with reels and social clips spotlighting his take on the cult of protein. “We’re obsessed with it,” he told Bartlett. “But for most people, it’s irrelevant.”

Yet despite his warning, the protein craze shows no signs of slowing. According to Precedence Research, the global protein market – encompassing both animal-derived and plant-based options – is predicted to surpass $27.48 billion by 2034, representing a CAGR of 8.50% between 2025 and 2034.

Celebrities are jumping on the bandwagon, endorsing a whole range of protein products, from protein-packed popcorn and porridge to bars and beverages. Supermarket shelves are stacked with high-protein yogurts, mousses, granolas and flapjacks. And the word ‘protein’ has become a convenient shortcut for ‘healthy’ – whether it deserves to be or not.

“Protein is massively hyped,” Spector continued. "There are very few people who are deficient [in the UK] and need supplements. I would say less than 5% of the population...because it is so inherent in our natural food. We evolved to be omnivores and to get enough protein. And our ancestors didn't all fall part because they didn't have protein shakes."

A marketing illusion?

Protein has been so heavily marketed that it is seen as a magical nutrient capable of improving health, building muscle and promoting weight loss. Yet, as Spector warns, this perception could be a product of clever marketing rather than evidence-based science.

As reported by the BBC this week, high-protein claims have appeared on 8.3% of food product launches in early 2025 – up from just 4.6% in 2023. From desserts to pizzas, the protein halo is everywhere, often slapped on ultra-processed foods that are far removed from what we might call 'healthy eating'.

Nutritionist Dr Paul Morgan warns that while protein plays an important role in muscle repair and satiety, the vast majority of consumers are already eating enough. “A lot of these products are gimmicky,” he told the BBC. “They might provide protein, but they’re also ultra-processed, high in calories, and not necessarily better for your health.”

The irony is that the very products claiming to promote wellness are contributing to the same metabolic issues they claim to prevent. Protein bars with nearly 500 calories per 100g and 'healthy' shakes loaded with sugar and additives might be fuelling the rise of obesity, not fixing it.

Spector told Bartlett: “The fact that we’re so focused on protein shows just how powerful marketing has become. Everywhere you look, ‘protein’ is used to sell products. If it’s got ‘protein’ on the label, people assume it must be healthy – that they need more of it".

Protein has taken on an almost mythical status – seen as a nutrient that can do no wrong. "There is this idea that protein will help you get strong – and that you don’t have to worry about calories or gaining weight. But that’s completely misleading," Spector added.

In reality, Spector says, most people are consuming nearly twice the amount of protein they need for everyday health. The only groups who might need to monitor their intake more carefully are older adults and individuals with reduced appetites – for example, due to illness, medication, surgery, or religious or cultural dietary restrictions. The truth is, most natural foods already contain plenty of protein. Meat, poultry, fish, dairy, grains, legumes – even pasta – all contribute to our daily intake.

And when we consider where that protein comes from, real food is likely a whole lot better. Our bodies have evolved to absorb nutrients from whole foods far more effectively than from processed shakes or powders, as Spector explained. “Supplements are often mixed with other chemicals, may not be properly absorbed and don’t offer the same benefits.”

There is also a hidden cost to overdoing it. “Excess protein isn’t free,” he warned. “What your body doesn’t need gets broken down – and if it’s not used by your muscles, it gets converted into sugars and stored as fat". So that ‘extra’ protein you think is doing good? Most of the time, it could be unnecessary – and even counterproductive.

Misplaced priorities

There is a bigger issue looming: our collective health is in crisis. Obesity, type 2 diabetes, cancer and cardiovascular disease are all climbing. According to the World Health Organization, global obesity has tripled since 1975, with over 1.9 billion adults now overweight. In the UK alone, one in three children are overweight or obese by the time they leave primary school.

And it is not just about waistlines. These conditions are driving a wave of comorbidities – from insulin resistance to liver disease – that are decimating public health systems and impacting economic output. Sick, tired and chronically undernourished people can not work to their full potential. In 2023, the UK’s Office for National Statistics reported that long-term sickness was at record highs and a major factor behind shrinking labour force participation.

But rather than confronting the structural problems behind poor diets – inequality, food deserts, broken supply chains and a culture of convenience – have we been sold a silver bullet: more protein?

What should we focus on instead?

Spector may be right: the real issue is not how much protein we are getting, it is the quality of the food we are eating overall. Our diets are increasingly dominated by ultra-processed foods – industrial formulations of additives, starches, emulsifiers, and synthetic flavours and colours – which have been linked to everything from mood disorders to cancer.

This renewed focus on nutrition and public health aligns with broader policy shifts. In the US, for example, health secretary RFK Jr has launched the 'Make America Healthy Again' initiative, aiming to tackle chronic diseases by scrutinising the role of UPFs, environmental toxins and dietary habits, to improve food safety.

The agenda includes proposals to phase out certain dyes, ingestible fluoride supplements and to investigate the health impacts of widely used pesticides like glyphosate and atrazine.

For food and beverage manufacturers, these developments underscore the importance of transparency and nutritional integrity in product formulation. As public health policies increasingly highlight whole foods and nutrient density, there's a growing opportunity (and responsibility) for manufacturers to innovate in ways that align with these health-focused directives.

Perhaps we should be asking tougher questions:

• With fewer than one in 20 people meeting their recommended fibre intake, how can we give this vital nutrient the spotlight it deserves?

• What impact are emulsifiers and artificial sweeteners having on our gut microbiome?

• Why are real, whole foods harder to access and more expensive than synthetic snacks?

• How can policy shift away from corporate convenience and toward public nourishment?

Whole food diets – rich in unprocessed plants, healthy fats and complex carbs – remain one of the few interventions that consistently show positive results across health, longevity and disease prevention. Yet they are rarely the focus of flashy campaigns or influencer-led endorsements. That means better education, regulation that favours nutrient density over calorie density, and support for farmers and suppliers who prioritise food quality over volume.

As Spector reminds us, good health is not found in a snack bar stamped with a ‘high-protein’ badge. It is found in daily habits, structural reform and a willingness to look beyond the marketing.

Protein might still have a seat at the table – but it was never the whole meal. If we are serious about improving public health, maybe it is time to 'Make Fibre Sexy Again'?